A Man's Best Friend

 The Czech writer Milan Kundera said, "Dogs are our link to paradise. They don't know evil or jealousy or discontent. To sit with a dog on a hillside on a glorious afternoon is to be back in Eden, where doing nothing was not boring--it was peace."  

  If I were to introduce the words of Milan Kundera into a classroom back in Kuwait, I would be met with students passionately disagreeing.  Traditionally, in Islam, dogs are seen as impure and the phrase "the dog is a man's best friend" would be seen as pure indoctrination of the Western culture.  Over the seven years that I was in Kuwait, I did see a small shift in attitude towards dogs.  During our first stay in Kuwait in 2002, it was not uncommon for teachers to have rocks thrown at their dog by children in the street.  If a dog were to come near a child or adult, they would often run away in fear.  By 2009, I began to see more dogs on the walking paths, but even these were far and few between.  To have a dog as a pet is not common practice, and is seen as dirty by most. 

If I were to introduce the words of Milan Kundera into a Japanese classroom, the students would be whole heartily agreeing.  A dog in Japan, is a literal extension of the family.  It is more than just anthropomorphizing here;  dogs literally become "humans" to the Japanese.  A dog is treated just as well as a child, and if there is no child in the house, it replaces the child.  If you spend a couple of hours on the streets of Japan, you will quickly know what I mean.  Dogs in clothes, dogs in strollers, dogs in pet parlours,  dogs in dog bakeries, dogs in restaurants (those that permit) eating off chopsticks, and dogs shopping for luxery items to enhance their lives.  I have one friend who told me that when she first got to Japan she went out looking for diapers for her son and all she could find were dog diapers.  "It's a dog's life" takes on a whole new meaning here.

The special treatment of dogs in Japan may have its roots in the the story of "Hachiko and Eisabura";  a famous Japanese story between man and his dog.

In 1923, a yellow-coated Atika dog was born and became known as little "Hachi" (Hachiko was his formal name).  A professor named Eisabura, adopted Hachi and the two became fast friends.  Each morning the dog would accompany his master to the Shibuya train station, and each evening the dog would be waiting for Eisabura at the same spot he left.  The two continued this routine until May 1925, when Eisabura did not return from work as usual.  That day he had a suffered a stroke and died, never to return to the station.
Hachiko was given away after his master's death, but he routinely escaped, showing up again and again at his old home. After time, Hachi apparently realized that Professor Uyeno no longer lived at the house, so he went to look for his master at the train station where he had accompanied him so many times before. Each day, Hachiko waited for Eisabura to return and each day he didn't see his friend.  Soon the other train passengers realized that Hachiko waited in vigil for his dead master and they brought Hachiko treats and food to nourish him during his wait.
News of Hachiko's remarkable loyalty eventually made its way outside of Tokyo, and he became something of an iconic figure in Japan.  A statue of Hachiko forged by sculptor Ando Teru was erected at the train station in 1934, where Hachiko had been awaiting his master's return each day for nearly 10 years.  On March 8, 1935, Hachiko laid down to die in the spot where he had spent a decade waiting each day for his master to come home.

It is hard to argue that the belief that a dog is a man's best friend is western indoctrination when you hear a story like this.  On the other had, it is hard to believe that dogs (and many other animals) are being treated better than most children around the world. (I know that Japan is not the only place this is happening).  No matter what your feelings about dogs, I think we can all agree with Franklin P Jones: "Scratch a dog and you'll find a permanent job."

A Change of Season

Christmas was a season that I looked forward to as a child: snow, toboganning, ice skating, Christmas trees, decorations, the promise of Santa's visit, carols, the Christmas story, and oranges.  Oh yes, the oranges!  I can remember anxiously waiting for mandarin oranges to hit the stores and for mom to buy the first box.  We were always rationed to one a day (if we were lucky two).  If we were really lucky, mom would buy Japanese mandarin oranges rather than cheaper Chinese, and if this was the case, it was certainly only one a day!   Now, 20+ years later, I am in Japan, surrounded by mandarin orange trees.  I can literally pick them off the trees (though I have not done this as the trees are in people's private yards).  If you think the mandarins you have tried are good, you have got to try one that has not travelled thousands of miles to meet you!  Simply delicious.

Steve and I always missed a change of seasons while living in Kuwait.  The biggest season change in Kuwait is the temperature dropping to a more tolerable degree, the dust subsiding, and a few flowers appearing on some trees.  Now that we are in Japan, we realize now how much we missed having a season change.  We are into autumn, and the Japanese maples are turning a fire red, other leaves are turning yellow, and the roses are in full bloom.  I have never seen so many different kinds of roses.  Each day the oranges on the trees turn a little more orange and a few more leaves have fallen to the ground.  Although the mornings are chilly, by afternoon the sun is shining and we are running around with no jackets.  I think this might be the second best time to visit Japan (Spring being the best) for those non teacher friends planning a visit (hint hint).

Halloween

I found myself laughing as Steve and I took out Tristan and Alyvia trick or treating.  My experiences with trick or treating over the years, have all been DRASTICALLY different:

1. Trick or Treating in Canada while Living on an Acreage: In -25 degree weather, we would head out the door with our costumes shoved over our ski jackets, mittens, and toques.  We would jump in the car and proceed to be chauffeured (by our parents) to the local houses in the area.  Because of the distance between acreages, we would not hit many places, but the houses we did hit were always a score of candy, chips, and if we were lucky, pop! By the end of the night we would seek the shelter and warmth of our own homes, and count our candy.

2. Trick or Treating in Kuwait: Since the Kuwaitis do not celebrate Halloween, it was an event that the parents of AIS staff children planned with other teachers in the school.  Staff that wanted to participate in giving out treats, would put a pre-made pumpkin on their door so that the kids would know what doors to knock on.  Heading out for the night, the kids would ensure that their costumes were light weight, as to not sweat to death during the process of running door to door. In 30 plus heat, trick or treating could get a little heated. As a group, we would travel to the four teacher buildings and ride up and down the elevator, finding doors that we could knock on.  By the end of the night, we were all sweaty and ready to hit the air-conditioning of our own apartments.  Here we would count our candy.

3. Trick or Treating in Japan: Traditionally, the Japanese do not celebrate Halloween, but when a bunch of Japanese kids get word that candy will be given out to all people in costumes on the 31st of October, in a rural area called Chofu, they come in bus loads to partake in the fun.  With 15-20 degree temperatures, all costumes are permissible in Japan.  Kids do not run the risk of freezing or sweating, but they do run the risk of being stuck in a line to receive candy.  In true Japanese fashion, there was such a crowd, that most houses in our area had kids lined up at their doors.  One of our teachers put together a "haunted yard" and by 7:30 pm there were at least 200 Japanese kids waiting in line to get in!  Luckily, we had VIP passes!  With so many kids out and about, Halloween spirit was certainly in the air. The great thing was, that being a school night (the Japanese are very serious about school), everything shut down by 8:30, and soon there after, we were at home counting our candy.....which did not add up to much...with up to 2000 kids at some houses, people have to be a little "skimpy" on what they give out.

Swimming at ASIJ

Steve and I continue to be impressed with what the school has to offer the students beyond the classroom.  For the last 2 months, Tristan has been apart of the elementary B Swim Team.  On Tuesdays and Thursdays, about 100 kids on the B Team would hit the water and practice their strokes under the tutelage of a high school student.  The 8 and unders would practice from 3:15-4:15 and the 9 and 10s would practice from 4:15-5:15.  On Monday, Wednesdays, and Fridays, the A team, with the same number of kids, would also practice.  Saturdays were reserved for swim meets, with team B getting 3 competitions under their belts, and the A team 4.  We were not only impressed by the ONE coach's dedication, but the dedication of the high school students who were deck managers, lifeguards, and swim coaches.  The sense of community is really strong and it is so great to see the older students being role models for the younger students.  Now that elementary swim is over, the middle and high school swim team now begins.

Tristan had a great experience being apart of a team.  He was not too sure about wearing the swim cap and swimming jammers, but realized he had no choice, as this what the coach expected.  He became very conscious of eating well before and during a meet, and felt a sense of belonging to something bigger than himself.  By the end of the season he had improved his freestyle by 4 seconds.  At the team baquet, his high school coach gave a little speech about each participant.  I had to laugh at what she said about Tristan- he won the "Mr. Smiles award" and she said that "even though he struggled at times, he never gave up and did his best".  What more could a parent ask for!

A Cultural Antithesis

Prayers

While visiting the Meiji Jingu shrine on the weekend, we were struck by the cultural antithesis that exists in Japan.  On one side, you will find a reserved people;  people who do not look you in the eye when talking to you; people who follow a deep religious devotion and celebrate Japanese traditions; people who embrace kimonos, geisha, origami, tea ceremonies, and traditional music.   While visiting the shrine we witnessed traditional Japanese weddings, people offering their prayers to the divine spirits, and a sense of the reserved Japanese culture where emotion should not be expressed.


As we left the shrine grounds, we were met with the other side of Japan- a country of youth trying to break Japanese stereotypes.  Leaving the temple grounds, you will find yourself in an area called Harajuku where fashion takes on a whole new meaning.  Young Japanese dress in a variety of styles that make you take a double look- outlandish hairstyles, lots of make-up, and clothes that resemble a mix of goth, punk, and Lolita (imagine landing in the game "Candy Land").  Then, a little ways down the road, you find yourself in Yoyogi park where young Japanese budding artists perform- there is irony in this comment as there was little to no talent in the performances we saw- it was more of an artistic catharsis!

Crowds

With 12 million people living in Tokyo, I knew that crowds would be something that I would have to get used to.  We are fortunate to live outside the city in a more rural area, so we do not have to fight crowds on a day to day basis.  But, as soon as we venture to the shopping areas in or around Tokyo, the crowds become inevitable.

I went out the other night with some ladies for a birthday.  It was a nice evening in a Thai restaurant that surprisingly was quiet.  But, as soon as we entered the train stations, the crowds became apparent.  When I got on the train, by friends had to pull me in for fear of me being squashed by the train doors.  The ironic thing was, as I was being pulled in, at least 6 people more people rammed themselves into the train behind me.  For the next 20 minutes we huddled amongst strangers, some men, who had a little too much to drink, and others, on their way home from work, whose eyelids fell heavy on their faces.  I cannot believe that people face these kinds of crowds everyday as they commute to and from work, some travelling for 2 hours at a time.  It sounds like hell to me!  Check out this video of people trying to get on the train.  Although it was not this bad the other night, I sure felt like cattle.

Our other experience with crowds was yesterday at Shibuya Crossing.  Shibuya station is the busiest station in Tokyo, and the road crossing becomes an automation of people.  As you watch this video, imagine the Bennett's in the thick of it, trying to maneuver a stroller.  Interesting!

Doll Thanksgiving Day

 We went into Tokyo yesterday and visited the Meiji Shrine, Tokyo's grandest Shinto shrine.  It happened to be the shrine's "Doll Thanksgiving Day", and there were thousands of dolls and stuffed animals neatly displayed around the grounds.  Since ancient times, the Japanese have believed that dolls posses souls, and so, shrines will accept dolls for those who cannot bear to simply discard old or broken dolls in the garbage.  Traditional Shinto religious ceremonies are carried out to purify and bless the existence of dolls that have completed their service.  Those that bring in the dolls write a message of gratitude to their own doll on paper cut-outs in the shape of a human figure, and place this note before the shrine alter.  The messages are then used by the Shinto priests in the rites of purification.  This practice is believed to bring peace and tranquility to the souls of the dolls, while returning the dolls to the state of mere physical entity.  At the same time, the doll owner will at last be able to bid farewell to their doll with reassurance and without feelings of remorse.

By the end of the day, it was expected that approximately 40,000 dolls would be enshrined.  (Following the ceremony, the dolls that have been returned to the status if materialistic objects are disposed of in a proper and respectful fashion). 

....can't say I have every come across anything remotely similar to this custom.