A Cultural Antithesis

Prayers

While visiting the Meiji Jingu shrine on the weekend, we were struck by the cultural antithesis that exists in Japan.  On one side, you will find a reserved people;  people who do not look you in the eye when talking to you; people who follow a deep religious devotion and celebrate Japanese traditions; people who embrace kimonos, geisha, origami, tea ceremonies, and traditional music.   While visiting the shrine we witnessed traditional Japanese weddings, people offering their prayers to the divine spirits, and a sense of the reserved Japanese culture where emotion should not be expressed.


As we left the shrine grounds, we were met with the other side of Japan- a country of youth trying to break Japanese stereotypes.  Leaving the temple grounds, you will find yourself in an area called Harajuku where fashion takes on a whole new meaning.  Young Japanese dress in a variety of styles that make you take a double look- outlandish hairstyles, lots of make-up, and clothes that resemble a mix of goth, punk, and Lolita (imagine landing in the game "Candy Land").  Then, a little ways down the road, you find yourself in Yoyogi park where young Japanese budding artists perform- there is irony in this comment as there was little to no talent in the performances we saw- it was more of an artistic catharsis!

Crowds

With 12 million people living in Tokyo, I knew that crowds would be something that I would have to get used to.  We are fortunate to live outside the city in a more rural area, so we do not have to fight crowds on a day to day basis.  But, as soon as we venture to the shopping areas in or around Tokyo, the crowds become inevitable.

I went out the other night with some ladies for a birthday.  It was a nice evening in a Thai restaurant that surprisingly was quiet.  But, as soon as we entered the train stations, the crowds became apparent.  When I got on the train, by friends had to pull me in for fear of me being squashed by the train doors.  The ironic thing was, as I was being pulled in, at least 6 people more people rammed themselves into the train behind me.  For the next 20 minutes we huddled amongst strangers, some men, who had a little too much to drink, and others, on their way home from work, whose eyelids fell heavy on their faces.  I cannot believe that people face these kinds of crowds everyday as they commute to and from work, some travelling for 2 hours at a time.  It sounds like hell to me!  Check out this video of people trying to get on the train.  Although it was not this bad the other night, I sure felt like cattle.

Our other experience with crowds was yesterday at Shibuya Crossing.  Shibuya station is the busiest station in Tokyo, and the road crossing becomes an automation of people.  As you watch this video, imagine the Bennett's in the thick of it, trying to maneuver a stroller.  Interesting!

Doll Thanksgiving Day

 We went into Tokyo yesterday and visited the Meiji Shrine, Tokyo's grandest Shinto shrine.  It happened to be the shrine's "Doll Thanksgiving Day", and there were thousands of dolls and stuffed animals neatly displayed around the grounds.  Since ancient times, the Japanese have believed that dolls posses souls, and so, shrines will accept dolls for those who cannot bear to simply discard old or broken dolls in the garbage.  Traditional Shinto religious ceremonies are carried out to purify and bless the existence of dolls that have completed their service.  Those that bring in the dolls write a message of gratitude to their own doll on paper cut-outs in the shape of a human figure, and place this note before the shrine alter.  The messages are then used by the Shinto priests in the rites of purification.  This practice is believed to bring peace and tranquility to the souls of the dolls, while returning the dolls to the state of mere physical entity.  At the same time, the doll owner will at last be able to bid farewell to their doll with reassurance and without feelings of remorse.

By the end of the day, it was expected that approximately 40,000 dolls would be enshrined.  (Following the ceremony, the dolls that have been returned to the status if materialistic objects are disposed of in a proper and respectful fashion). 

....can't say I have every come across anything remotely similar to this custom.